Detox for our People + Planet
Hazardous Chemicals in Fashion Product Life Cycle
• Risk of exposure to hazardous chemicals at all stages of product life cycle
• Oeko-Tex provides best ethical standard (hazardous chemicals)
• APEOs and APs impair human and fish fertility
• Integrate global goal UNSDG 6.3 into business strategy
• Greenpeace Detox Campaign provides valuable information to get started
There are thousands of hazardous chemicals that are used within the clothing product lifecycle.
The risk they pose to human, non-human, and environmental health is dependent on the amount
present (in the sample) and the properties of the chemical compounds (how they interact with
Chemicals play a significant role in the manufacturing process from assisting in the fast turn
around of crop production to creating beautiful vibrant and water resistant fabrics. However, if we
are to reach the United Nations Sustainable Development Goal #6 Clean Water and Sanitation
then we must make the next decade, the decade of action.
United Nation Sustainable Development Goal 6.3 states:
“By 2030, improve water quality by reducing pollution, eliminating dumping and minimizing release of
hazardous chemicals and materials, halving the proportion of untreated wastewater and substantially
increasing recycling and safe reuse globally”
If we are to meet this goal then we must equip ourselves with the knowledge to take action on protecting our People + Planet. This goal can apply to all stages of the product life cycle from the farm to factory to customer care (washing) and end of life. Fashion labels serious about ethics in their supply chain need to incorporate this target into their business strategy.
Pesticides and synthetic fertilisers used in non-organic cotton farming can have trace elements as
the product moves along the life cycle.
To add, denitrification, the chemical process of nitrogen fertiliser where oxygen is removed, consequently turns into nitrous oxide. As this is released into the air it becomes a potent greenhouse gas attributing to global warming. The run off of fertilisers and pesticides into ground water supplies and waterways causes environmental destruction. Unsustainable practices are short sighted. Sure, they can increase crop production but as land becomes desolate year on year, crop yields will fall.
Corethics is a strong advocate for the use of circular wastewater treatment plants due to their
ability to remove hazardous chemicals from reaching the environment (among various other
benefits!). The combination of chemicals used in the yarn processing, dying, and fixing process, if
not properly treated, can have lasting impacts on the local environment and human health.
In 2011, Greenpeace launched their Detox Fashion campaign asking fashion labels to stop hazardous chemicals from polluting waterways. Greenpeace identified 11 priority chemical groups:
- Alkylphenols (APs) & Alkylphenolethoxylates APEOs)
- Brominated and chlorinated flame retardants
- Azo dyes releasing carcinogenic amines through reductive cleavage
- Organotin compounds
- Poly- and Perfluorinated chemicals (PFCs)
- Short-chain chlorinated paraffins
- Heavy metals: cadmium, lead, mercury and chromium (VI)
Take APEOs for example, this chemical is used across a number of products including wetting
agents, spinning oils (yarn and fabric), emulsifier/dispersing agents for dyes and prints,
impregnating agents, degreasing agents for leather hides, dyes and pigment preparations, and
down/feather fillings. APEOs pose little threat as they are weakly estrogenic. It is not until they are
released into the environment and become APs that they begin to bond with other cancer causing
APs have been known to bond with xeno-estrogens. To us humans, xeno-estrogens have
endocrine disrupting effects such as decreased sperm count, and an increase in testicular,
prostate, and breast cancer. To fish, birds, and mammals it is toxic, affecting fertility, decreasing
stocks and ecosystems become impaired.
Research has found that hazardous chemicals present in clothing can be attributed to skin
allergies, carcinogenic causing cancer, and reproductive disruptors. High concentrations of
APEOs have been found in grey water after customers wash their clothing item for the first time.
The importance of tracing, auditing, and ensuring your products are safe cannot be underestimated. Accreditations that look at human health as well as environmental impact provide a wholesome approach to ethics in the fashion supply chain.
Whether you’re a business owner or customer make sure you take a look at OEKO-Tex Standards.
Australian fashion waste to landfill is amongst the highest in the world. We need brands to rethink
their product life cycle and consider the end of life and how clothing might continue in the cycle.
For those manufacturing offshore in developing countries where waste management facilities may be elementary or absent altogether, questioning how, when, where, and how factory waste is dealt with is important in closing the loop. With all the hazardous chemical effects on human, non-human, and
environmental health we desperately need fashion designers to understand what they are creating
and ensure it is doing good rather than harm.
When we are mindful of hazardous chemicals and detox, we become mindful of water and when
we act with ethics in both – we can create peace for our People + People.
Keen to get started on ethics in your supply chain? Book your first free first 15-minute consult today.